The 1950s represent a golden age for Rolex, a period of significant innovation and the refinement of classic designs that continue to captivate collectors today. This era saw the introduction and evolution of iconic models that solidified Rolex's position as a leading luxury watchmaker. This article delves into the world of Rolex men's watches from the 1950s, focusing on the 39mm case size, a popular dimension even by today's standards, and exploring the key models, their design features, and their enduring appeal in the vibrant market of vintage Rolex watches.
The decade witnessed a surge in demand for wristwatches, driven by post-war prosperity and a growing appreciation for sophisticated timepieces. Rolex responded by enhancing existing models and introducing new ones, each reflecting the technological advancements and aesthetic preferences of the time. While the exact definition of a "39mm" Rolex from the 1950s is nuanced – as case sizes weren't always precisely measured and reported in the same way as they are today – we'll focus on watches that fall within this approximate range, considering the variations in lug-to-lug measurements and crown inclusion.
One of the most significant developments of the 1950s was the evolution of the Rolex Day-Date. Before 1956, the Day-Date, then known as the President, only came in a 36mm case. However, the demand for larger watches was growing, leading to subtle size increases in various models over the decade. The Day-Date ref. 6611, launched in the mid-1950s, represents a pivotal moment. This reference, frequently found in sizes close to 39mm depending on the specific measurement, boasted a significant upgrade in size from its predecessor. This was a crucial step towards the larger, more substantial watches that would dominate the subsequent decades. The ref. 6611 remained in production until 1959, when it was replaced by the first of the famous Day-Date 1800-series. Design-wise, there are some subtle but significant differences between the 6611 and the 1800 series. The most obvious is the movement; the 6611 uses the calibre 1055, while the 1800 series uses the calibre 1555. The latter brought improvements in accuracy and reliability. Other subtle differences can be found in the dial design, the hands, and the case construction. Collectors often prize the ref. 6611 for its transitional nature, representing the bridge between earlier Day-Date models and the iconic designs that followed.
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